The most usual cow in the most unusual setting: this is Karakalpakstan and the Aral Sea or rather what remains of it: endless desert. The world’s largest environmental disaster is a typical result of replacing logic with the Soviet economy.
Cows graze literally at the bottom of the sea. Nearby Vozrozhdenye Island is where the Soviets experimented with chemical weapons. Novichok, an indispensable ingredient of Putin’s diet was invented there. He eagerly serves it to his political opponents he wants to get rid of.
Once prosperous and famous for its fish and caviar, the area of the former Aral Sea is a sad place to see today. Yet, there is something magic about its eerie beauty, especially early in the morning, before it gets hot.
Moynaq was once the main sea port in Karakalpakstan. Today, it is a forgotten place where almost no visitors come. However, very kind-hearted and hospitable people live here. Listening to their stories over a pot of tea is a delight. Over the last couple of days, I had a wonderful time in Moynaq and, however exciting my trip along part of the former Trans-Caspian Railway is, I left it with a heavy heart.
I would love to hear thei stories. Very good blog. Love it
ReplyDeleteI have great time here. Knowledge of Russian helps a lot and opens many doors. The people are so friendly, hospitable and polite, food is nice (if not on the heavy side - lots of meat and chocolate cakes that make your belly burst), the area - very safe. Bordering Tajikistan and Afghanistan, the country is very attractive for ISIS etc. The government managed to defend the people against islamists, though. Muslim schools and institutions are strictly controlled, men are not allowed to wear beards, women to cover their faces, all extremist situations are swiftly treated by security forces. Still, Uzbekistan is very traditional and conservative. While vodka flows freely during Ramadan, if you want to take a picture of a woman, ask her husband for permission first.
DeleteGreat pictures, Piotr! What an interesting place!
ReplyDeleteHi Tom, the place is fascinating, the people very friendly. You feel welcome in Uzbekistan from the moment you arrive at Tashkent airport, or rather as soon as you board Uzbekistan Airways plane on your way here.
ReplyDeleteThere is a growing Russian population here. Most move to Uzbekistan as they cannot accept Putin’s dictatorship back home. They settle down here, open their companies (or like Svetlana, whom I met two days ago, an art school).
As I am a train buff, I follow Trans-Caspian railway built back in the times of the Russian Empire. What a great vacation!
Can't wait for you to give us detailed stories and photos .....hopefully you won't be too lazy and keep us waiting forever 😉 To be thousands of feet under the sea and not need scuba gear.
ReplyDeleteOh, Camellia, my Amtrak trips still wait to be “blogged”. I promise I will do my best.
DeleteThat is a good one: diving without scuba gear. I did not think of it while walking the bottom of the sea. At this very moment, I am on a train to Bukhara. Then, at the end of the week I will head back to Tashkent from where I will fly home.
Fantastic capture love the action capture
ReplyDeleteThanks a lot Tom, thanks a lot, Jovi. The boys were eager to show me their acrobatic skills.
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